Last workweek , REI Co - op stores around the country closed for Black Friday . It ’s a company tradition date back to 2015 , where the outdoor retail merchant asks client to “ opt outdoors ” rather than take part in a post - Thanksgiving shopping fling .
But there ’s one thing that REI has n’t yet opt out of : a class of chemical compound known as “ forever chemicals . ” By using these chemical in its weewee - insubordinate outdoor clothing , a alinement of nonprofits and wellness experts say REI is needlessly contaminate the environment and damaging citizenry ’s wellness .
“ It ’s ironic that a caller like REI … is selling product that are pollute some of the most beautiful and wild property , ” said Mike Schade , a political platform film director for the nonprofit Toxic - complimentary Future . Similar company such as Patagonia have already institutionalize to phase out per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances — known as PFAS — and Schade ’s organization iscalling on REIto do the same .
Photo: Bruce Bennett (Getty Images)
PFAS comprise aclass of chemicalsthat have been used in consumer products since the mid-19th century — often to give stain- and water supply - resistant properties to product like nonstick cookware , food packaging , and outdoor wearable . The trouble , however , is that PFAS are tie in to cancer , metabolic disorder , reduced fertility , and other health problems . Plus , they do n’t break down once they escape into the environment , hence the nickname “ constantly chemicals . ” Scientists are now finding PFAS just about everywhere they look — indrinking water , inbreastmilk , inpeople ’s bloodstreams . Even rain is now contaminate withunsafe levels of PFAS .
PFAS “ lean to get into everything ” and gravel serious risks to public health , said Jimena Díaz Leiva , scientific discipline music director for the non-profit-making Center for Environmental Health . They ’re release not only by shearing off of polluted materials like clothing , but at themanufacturing stage , where large measure may enter the environment through wastewater or airborne particles .
REI ishardly the only companywhose production have tested positive for PFAS . Toxic - innocent Future organizers say they are targeting REI because it ’s a large and well - respected outdoor retailer . REI does n’t just produce its own line of clothing , but also sell item from a huge array of other brands : The North Face , Patagonia , Arc’teryx , Mammut , and Black Diamond , just to name a few . Some of these brands have already consecrate to phasing out PFAS . Still , Schade say REI could nudge them to move faster by screening products for PFAS , in addition to phasing the toxic material from its own product product line .
REI has “ a massive influence over the insurance of the companies whose products they sell , ” Schade said . “ take their suppliers to censor PFAS in their merchandise … can have a ripple consequence across the out-of-door diligence . ”
REIsayson its site that it ’s already stopped using two of the most well - analyze “ forever ” chemical compound — so - called “ recollective - Sir Ernst Boris Chain ” PFAS known as PFOA and PFOS — and supercede them with curt - chain PFAS “ where viable alternatives do not yet subsist . ” Butresearchers warnshort - chain PFAS may be just as problematic as their long - chain opposite number in term of the threats they pose to environmental and human health ..
In reception to Grist ’s request for scuttlebutt , REI said it was “ in the appendage of egest all remaining PFAS from our own intersection , ” but it did n’t address inquiry about a timeline for that transition .
REI has n’t elaborated publicly on the barrier it faces as it incite aside from PFAS . But accounts from other retailers describe a similar job : It ’s been hard to incur PFAS replenishment that are equally effective when creating long-wearing outdoor products .
PFAS worked “ really , really well , ” said Matt Dwyer , vice president of product shock and innovation for the outdoor clothing company Patagonia , which plans toeliminate PFASfrom its product by 2024 . For years , his company and others relied on the now - ill-famed socio-economic class of chemicals to make pelting gear waterproof — either by apply the chemical substance externally in a “ durable , piddle - repellent ” finish , do it in industry - speak as “ DWR , ” or by weaving them into a waterproof membrane that can be sandwiched between bed of fabric .
former substitution candidates did n’t measure up , Dwyer say , likening them to “ an creative person ’s hammer and chisel ” next to the “ dynamite ” of PFAS . The alternatives also resulted in product side effects that compromise sustainability in other ways : Some early translation of a PFAS - free last have garment to fall apart , increase concerns overtextile waste .
Still , some brand seem to have establish sufficient solutions to move forward . Retailers including Marmot and Mountain Hardwear have released successful lines of PFAS - spare items . official from Polartec , which makes cloth for companies including Black Diamond and The North Face , switch to PFAS - free DWR intervention in July 2021 and hasnoted“no loss of performance from a weewee repellency or lastingness stand . ” The outside brand name Jack Wolfskin state they’vealready run PFAS - complimentary .
Swedish out-of-door brand Fjällräven , which claims to be PFAS - destitute except for its zippers , say the only matter PFAS - free applied science seem unable to do is repel oil color . But that ’s a via media the company says it ’s been willing to make to accost an pressing menace to public health and the surround .
Why do these company report such success while others have n’t ? It ’s unclear , since militant clothing brand are in the main tight - lipped about their PFAS substitute . Lydia Jahl , a science and policy associate degree for the nonprofit Green Science Policy Institute , said ship’s company may be resistant to the monetary value of interchange their product lines , or they may be running into provision chain issues . ( Large material suppliers may not be ready to chuck PFAS , even when the retailers grease one’s palms their material are . )
Some experts argue the challenge companies say they face when eliminating PFAS are pontifical ; after all , people have been making clothing for utmost sports since long before PFAS became omnipresent . Back then , companies used wax - similar finishes to keep piddle from soaking through their clothing . The British Air Force just usedtightly - woven cotton fiber material .
In addition to bringing back some of those older proficiency , today ’s retailers have a produce number of selection to supplant PFAS . fabric from Marmot and Jack Wolfskin are using polyurethan , a kind of plastic textile , to help repel water . Other companies utilize brand name - name intervention like Empel and Bionic Finish Eco that commercialize themselves as environmentally friendly .
“ There are alternatives , ” Jahl say . “ If they invest and put more resource into it , there are really good materials chemist … who can calculate out the replacements for these ship’s company . ”
Schade , meanwhile , is hope state legislation will force companies ’ hands . California recentlyenacted a lawto eliminate “ on purpose add ” PFAS from most apparel by 2025 , and — because companies are unconvincing to create separate Cartesian product furrow just for California — the law is expect to set a national industriousness criterion . REI say itsupports the law , which wo n’t apply to outdoor clothing for “ severe pissed circumstance ” until January 1 , 2028 .
Washington state is also eyeing stricter regulations for PFAS ; the Evergreen State ’s Democratic regulator , Jay Inslee , ratify a billthis spring that is expected to leave in a quicker phaseout of the toxic substances , although a timeline has n’t yet been specified .
“ We are hopeful that these policies will propel REI to redevelop their products , ” Schade said — ideally , quicker than the law require . “ The companionship has testify it can both do well and do good at the same time , ” he said , pointing to its commitments onclimate changeandother hazardous chemical . “ We ’d like to see REI be a drawing card and do the correct thing to tackle chemicals that have pollute the boozing water for millions of Americans . ”
chemicalsChemistryPFAS
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